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It’s run by a collection of amazing people and Yvon Chouinard, himself, is a true living legend – a pioneer in thought, business, and conservation (not to mention how he changed the world of climbing). I’d love to get an alaia after having a go on Crystal Thornburg’s alaia in Hawaii last year. Soooooo many waves great waves out there, but my favorite’s a secret…What’s your favorite meal? A., Herb Alpert, Hooverphonic, Alpha Blondy, Arcade Fire, Hank Williams, Paul Simon, Bonnie Tyler, Beethoven, Beirut, Blue King Brown, Marcia Griffiths, Brigitte Bardot, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah, Jackson Browne, Deep Forest, Dezarie, Diana Ross, Dr, Alimentado, Lutan Fyah, Horace Andy, Jimmy Buffett, Joan Jett, Le Tigre, Todd Hannigan, Michael Franti, Midnite, Quantic, Scissor Sisters, Sean Hayes, Sigur Ros, Stevie Wonder just to start… Wherever the wind blows me, I guess, and keep sharing my love for the planet with the world.
One day, I asked Glen if I can buy a blank off him. A live appearance on the 24th at the Surfing Heritage Museum and possible collabo in September.
Took it home that afternoon and started shaping it. Finishing my degrees in Fashion Design and then Business Management. As for this evening, I think I’m gonna pack up the boy, pup and boards and get my Liz Clark is a California surfer who travels the Pacific on a boat named Swell.
Moving to California was a big change in my life—trying to fit in, bouncing back and forth with sports, etc.
Until I was a late teen, I had no involvement with surfing whatsoever.
As far as surfboard design and construction, I’ve been inspired by Glen Kennedy, Rich Pavel and the diverse crew of craftsmen that are pushing surfboard design to the next level—not to mention all the laminators, sanders, polishers and fin guys who are constantly innovating their techniques. I think its about seven to eight years since I started shaping.
I was working at Kennedy Surfboards’ retail shop and I wanted to try out more boards, but just couldn’t afford it.
People didn’t so much inspire me, I was more interested in their creative output. Culture, the West, Art Nouveau, Mexicans, Christian Dior’s “New Look,” The Talking Heads, jazz, blues, Egon Schiele, Georgia O’Keefe, Agnes Martin, France, books, outer space, the South, my friend Matt Kim, Sophia of the Mermaid Bones. Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why? There’s still those days when the water gets crystal clear, the waves are purrfect, and its quiet. There’s still a void though for a truly stylish, feminine lady who can surf whatever and surf it well like a woman should. I was a competitive gymnast for many years, but by that time, I was getting bored with it and ready for something new.
And all the kids ‘round here doin’ something creatively their own. What was the feeling you had when you first stood on a surfboard?
Top any meal off with chocolate lava cake and it’s my favorite. I feel very inspired to continue my yoga and meditation practice, keep encouraging people to live out their passions, and look beyond the hype to seek peace, truth, and more sustainable ways of living.
Simon Perini is an Australian surfer / photographer who creates layered compositions that capture the emotion and feelings of sliding waves. Not growing up near the beach, I didn’t have a surfboard till I was 17.